Page 7 - West_Aegean

Food

the altar screen the priest appears with a lighted candle and proceeds to light
the candles of those in the church. Everyone responds with Kristos Anesti
(Christ is risen) and there is a procession with the lighted candles through the
streets to the sound of firecrackers and skyrockets, or any other explosive
devices that are to hand. This is not a good time to be in trouble at sea as a lot
of out-of-date flares are used up – though don’t be tempted yourself as it is
against the law to do so and there have been prosecutions. The traditional
greeting at this time is Kronia Polla (‘Many years’ or ‘Long life’). In the home
boiled eggs, traditionally dyed red, are dished out and the normal sport is to bet
your egg against the others, in the manner of conkers, or to surprise your
friends with a solid rap on the head with the egg to crack the shell.
There are many local saints’ days in the villages and towns, and the whole
place will often close down for them even if they are not on the list of state
holidays. Greeks normally celebrate not their birthday but the day of the saint
they are named after – their name-day. In some churches there are icons to a
saint reckoned to provide an above average service, and these will have
numerous votive offerings. Many of these are simple affairs, a pressed metal
disc showing what blessing is required, whether for an afflicted limb, safety at
sea, a newborn baby or a family house. Some of the older votive offerings are
more ornate and elaborate, sometimes a painting or a model of a ship where
thanks are given for survival at sea, or a valuable brooch or piece of jewellery
for some other blessing. Greek churches are wonderful places, the iconostasis ‘Grub’s up!’, Cyclades
always elaborate and adorned, and the interior a
dark and mystical place. It constantly amazes me
that even in the most out-of-the-way places, on a
rocky islet or a remote headland, every church
and chapel and shrine will be newly whitewashed
and cleaned, with an oil lamp burning or ready to
burn in it.

FOOD
Greek food is not for the gourmet, but rather is
plain wholesome cooking that goes with the
climate and the Greek idea that a meal is as much
a social occasion as a culinary experience. This is
not, I emphasise, to say that Greek food is not
enjoyable. I love the unadulterated flavours of
charcoal-grilled fish with a squeeze of lemon over
it, or a salata horiatiki, the ubiquitous mixed
salad swimming in olive oil and peppered with
feta and black olives – the simplicity of the
combination of ingredients brings out the best in
them. In some restaurants and in Greek family
cooking you will come across dishes that have
been lost in the tourist areas, where either the
lethargy of taverna owners or the demands of
visitors for a bland ‘international’ cuisine
revolving around steak and chips has removed
them from the menu. Some of the island tavernas
still have a dish or two specific to the island or
region, such as fish à la Spetsiota, but for the
majority the dishes on the menu are those which

WEST AEGEAN 7